My
mom’s cranberry relish with walnuts, citrus and vanilla is so good, people get
territorial about it.
Her
friend, not using names here, saw a prized batch on her counter and wrangled
some to take to a party. She told the hostess it was coming, but instead the
allotted portion did not make it out of her house. She and her husband consumed
it all.
After
Thanksgiving I’d stashed some away from even my own husband. After eyeing all
the tuna cans that came into my life after Harvey, I thought I’d mix some
cranberry relish into the tuna. My husband said he was not interested and
chastised me for using up the precious cranberries. And yet, he ended up
sampling right from my plate and then serving his own portion.
The
completed dish looked even better than the photo I took, as someone must have
sneaked many of the cranberries out first.
Get
to know “divorced eggs”
Hueveos
Divorciados are “divorced eggs,” separated by beans, and marry two salsas.
Carne Asada Vampiros are tacos wih garlic aioli to ward off the vampires at the
taco stand. Try Crab Huarache on a cactus paddle our sides of payapa soup and
cilantro soups, dished half orange and half green into the same bowl.
The
photos will catch your eye and the well-written profiles of cooks and chefs
will catch your heart. Bill Esparza has written L.A. Mexicano: Recipes, People
& Places as a bit of a guide, modern history and recipe book. There’s a
Tex-Mex recognition, but this book centers on styles and dishes we don’t see
often in Southeast Texas. The
author shares stories of how dishes developed from family traditions and
evolved for today’s customs. I want to try them all, but here’s one.
Salsa
Borracha, Drunken Salsa
Author’s
note: If you can’t find pulque, make use beer and make a day or two ahead for
best flavor. Makes about 2 cups.
8
pasilla chles, stems removed
5
cloves garlic
1
teaspoon kosher salt, more to taste
1
cup pulque or beer, like Mondelo or Tecate
one
half medium orange
Put
chiles in a medium pot, add enough water to cover, and boil until chiles are
tender, abou 20 minutes. Transfer chiles to a blender, add garlic and salt and
pulse until you have a very thick paste, adding a tablespoon or two of cooking
water only if needed. Add pulue or beer and blend until the salsa has
consistency of a milkshake; if needed, add a little more cooking water. Finish
by squeezing orange juice into salsa and seasoning with additional salt to
taste. Transfer to a boil if serving immediately or cover and refrigerate.
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